boat noodle alley — *Who knew such an inconspicuous alley could contain so many delicious secrets*

Usually boat noodles are an Ayutthaya thing, but even in the heart of Bangkok you can find some really incredible Boat Noodles. Enter, a small little alleyway located along a tiny branch of the Samsen canal just north of the iconic Victory Monument.

Here, a handful of eateries compete with each other to claim the title of Bangkok’s best boat noodles. And today, you and I are going to explore this little slice of Bangkok foodie heaven together :)

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Victory Monument’s Boat Noodle Legacy

bangkok victory monument — *An icon of Thailand’s victory over the Franco-Thai War*

A quick introduction to boat noodles for those who don’t know, boat noodles are a classic Thai dish of noodle soups traditionally served from vendors on boats (hence the name) sailing through the canals of historical Bangkok.

Traditionally, there was only one type of noodle soup, “Kuay Tiew Nam Tok” which means “waterfall noodles” in reference to the dish’s preparation method (today we sometimes call it “Kuay Tiew Ruea” which mean just means “boat noodles”).

A complex pork (sometimes beef) broth mixed with raw pork blood (don’t worry the boiling broth cooks the blood) is poured over rice noodles, raw pork or beef, meatballs, and vegetables. As the hot broth is waterfalling into the bowl, the raw meat gets cooked to a tender perfection.

Quick History of Boat Noodles

thai boat noodle nam tok — *A fully loaded bowl of Nam Tok boat noodles*

As Bangkok modernized and the city favored roads and sidewalks instead of canals, these boat noodle vendors naturally transitioned from boats to street side stalls or restaurants. In the center of Bangkok, the this centuries old food culture still lives on in Boat Noodle Alley. Fittingly located next to another important piece of Thai history, a symbol erected in 1941 to commemorate the victory of the Franco-Thai War, the Victory Monument.

Nowadays, you can find Boat Noodle restaurants all over Thailand, and alongside the traditional authentic Nam Tok boat noodles you’ll likely also see other noodle soup dishes on the menu such as Yen Ta Fo (bright pink fermented tofu broth), and Tom Yum noodles (my personal favorite).

Boat noodles are usually served in small portions, meant to be eaten in a similar to eating conveyer belt sushi, by order many different varieties and seeing how high you can stack your bowls.

How to get to Boat Noodle Alley?

Ok ok, history lesson is over, now how do we get to Boat Noodle Alley exactly?

First I recommend taking the BTS (skytrain) to Victory Monument (Anusawari) Station, once you get off the train, head towards Exit 3/4, follow the skywalk around the east end of the Victory Monument roundabout. Boat Noodle Alley is located at the very end of the skywalk.

Tight Alleys Packed Full of Flavor

One thing you’ll immediately notice is that the alley, while short, is very cramped. Both sides of the alley are either lined with outdoor seating or the restaurant’s kitchen. You can barely fit 2 people side by side in some parts of the alley.

Another thing to note is that the alley is quite dim and claustrophobic, there is roofing above so little natural light comes through except for the side facing the Samsen canal. And uh… the floor is quite wet as well, no doubt from the restaurants washing dishes and such. So not the best impression unfortunately, but we don’t judge a Boat Noodle by it’s alleyway.

baan kuay tiew ruathong — *Boat noodles are cool but I’m a huge fan of that guy’s Tom and Jerry shirt*

Despite the questionably cleanliness, there’s not doubt that you’ll start feeling a little excited seeing all chaos unfolding in front of you. From waiters swerving around with an army of boat noodles on their serving trays, to the intense flavor packed aroma of the Nam Tok broth boiling away in large cauldrons.

I know I was excited, my mouth was literally salivating, I know yours will too ;)

The Boat Noodle Alley has a total of 4 notable restaurants, however there are other restaurants located around the area, just not in the actual alley itself. So, without further ado, let’s explore the best boat noodle restaurants in Bangkok!

VERY Important Information for your Eating Experience!

baan kuay tiew ruathong tom yum noodles — *My personal favorite boat noodle order, Tom Yum egg noodles*

Before I get to talking about the restaurants themselves, there are a few characteristics that (generally) all boat noodle restaurants share that you should know:

Noodles are served in 2 sizes: big and small, big is enough for a full meal, small is for trying many different types of boat noodles
Usually 3 main varieties: Nam Tok (of course), TomYum, and Yen Ta Fo (fermented tofu broth). Sometimes you’ll even get Khao Soi (Northern Thai curry noodles).
Noodle options: you can choose between wide/thin rice noodles, vermicelli noodles, egg noodles (my personal preference), and sometimes instant mama noodles.
Dry vs soup: you can order with or without soup, don’t worry you’ll still get all the spices and flavors, just… not the wetness

Example: if I want to order a Small Tom Yum Noodle Soup with Egg Noodles i’ll say “Tom Yum Bah Mi Nam Size Lek” which the exact transliteration is “Tom Yum Egg Noodle Soup Small Size”.

Ok, now we’re ready to explore.

Pranakorn Noodles

The first boat noodle restaurant you’ll encounter, as it’s literally located in the entrance to the boat noodle alley, is Pranakorn Noodles. In my humble and totally non-subjective opinion, Pranakorn Noodles is the um… least good restaurant within Boat Noodle Alley.

Pranakorn’s small size is 20 THB while their large size is 70 THB, quite a bit expensive compared to the other places in Boat Noodle Alley.

Pranakorn Noodles seem to be more commercialized and “touristy” compared to the other restaurants in Boat Noodle Alley. The menu is pretty big, a lot of side dishes and drinks to order along with your boat noodles.

The restaurant itself is quite clean and air conditioned (which is a big plus), but for the taste, I think it’s just so-so, the flavors are too spicy and not that balance. Though I do like that they have a lot of variety and their side dishes are great too, I recommend the deep fried shrimp.

I would recommend Pranakorn Noodles if you like a more spice-forward flavor profile, also their biggest strength is the cleanliness and comfortable dining experience. Not a bad place at all, but not the best.

Pranakorn Noodles Details

Google Maps Ratings: 3.9/5 (1,400+ reviews)

Location: QG8Q+9MJ, Ratchawithi Rd, Thanon Phaya Thai, Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400

Phone: +66 89 841 8558

Opening Hours: 8:00 AM - 9:00 PM | Mon - Sun

Anong Boat Noodle Restaurant

The most eye catching restaurant is Anong Boat Noodle because their kitchen is literally right out in the open, in the middle of the alley. Plus they’re one of the only restaurants providing outdoor seating next to the canal, don’t worry though, indoor seating is also available. Anong has been here for a long time, and is a favorite of many of us locals, partly due to nostalgia, and also because they serve solid bowls of boat noodles

Anong only serves small bowls for 18 THB, but they have a cool promotion where if you manage to eat 20 bowls you get a free large bottle of Coca Cola. I eat a lot but even I could never reach 20 bowls, my personal record was 14, but that was back in my University days.

The flavor profile of Anong’s boat noodles are les sweet compared to the other shops, so the flavor is more balanced. Though not as popular, and honestly quite underrated, Anong is a good choice for boat noodles if you want a more balanced flavor profile, plus it’s fun trying to reach that 20 bowl promotion.

Anong Boat Noodle Restaurant Details

Google Maps Rating: 4.3/5 (230+ reviews)

Location: 2/14-15 Phahonyothin Rd, Samsen Nai, Phaya Thai, Bangkok 10400

Phone: +66 81 825 5574

Opening Hours: 9:00 AM - 7:30 PM | Tue - Sun

Baan Kuay Tiew Ruathong

We’ve come to my personal favorite and the most popular boat Noodle restaurant in the alley. And in my humble and totally objective opinion, the best restaurant in boat noodle alley. Baan Kuay Tiew Ruathong has air conditioned room, nice wooden furniture and décor that brings you back to the good old days when Michael Jackson was topping the charts, what’s not to love?

Baan Kuay Tiew Ruathong’s small size is 18 THB while their large size is 60 THB, not bad price at all. I find that the flavors at this place to be more rich and concentrated, if you like bold flavors then this restaurant is the choice for you. Plus they have Khao Soi here which is always a plus in my book.

One thing to note here is that you should be prepared for cramped and crowded seating, since Baan Kuay Tiew Ruathong is very popular with both locals and tourists, you should be ready for a big crowd.

If you want, you can check out my Baan Kuay Tiew Ruathong Review for more information :)

Baan Kuay Tiew Ruathong Details

Google Maps Rating: 4.4/5 (2,300+ reviews)

Location: 1/7 Ratchawithi Rd, Samsen Nai, Phaya Thai, Bangkok 10400

Phone: +66 86 422 4932

Opening Hours: 9:00 AM - 8:00 PM | Tue - Sun

Pa Yak Boat Noodle

The second most popular restaurant in Boat Noodle Alley is Pa Yak Boat Noodles. Pa Yak serves 2 sizes, small for 18 THB and large for 60 THB. And if you order 10 small bowls you’ll get a bottle of Coca Cola for free :)

For me, the boat noodles are Pa Yak are alright, their flavor profile is all over the place. The flavors for each bowl isn’t consistent, some days it’s mild, some days it’s intense, it’s like playing Russian Roulette but with boat noodles. Their side dishes and toppings are really good though, the meatballs and pork rinds especially.

One issue that I want to point out is that their service is sometimes iffy, staff will forget orders, give you the wrong order, ignore you, skimp out on toppings, etc… Looking at other reviews I’ve seen similar things have been said, so they really need to sort this issue out.

Pa Yak is a strange one, on good days the noodles are absolutely delicious, but on other days, the noodles leave something to be desired. Though their sign clearly states “The Bestof Noodle Boat”, I’ll leave the rankings up to you to decide.

Pa Yak Boat Noodle Details

Google Maps Rating: 4.3/5 (1,040+ reviews)

Location: 23-24 Ratchawithi 10 Alley, Thanon Phaya Thai, Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400

Phone: +66 89 921 3378

Opening Hours: 9:00 AM - 9:00 PM | Mon - Sun

Details About Boat Noodle Alley

Boat Noodle Alley is a small collection of popular boat noodle restaurants located in an alleyway just north of Bangkok’s Victory Monument. It’s one of the best places for authentic boat noodles in Bangkok, frequented by locals and tourists alike.

Location: 2/16-18 Phahonyothin Rd, Samsen Nai, Phaya Thai, Bangkok 10400

Opening Hours:  Around 9:00 AM - 8:30 PM | Mon - Sun

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