Exploring Kunming’s Golden Temple Park and the Legend of Chen YuanYuan
The Golden Temple Park in Yunnan is one of the largest in China
I recently came back from a trip to Kunming in the Yunnan province of China and one experience that I didn’t expect to enjoy so much was exploring Kunming’s famous Taoist temple, the Golden Temple Park which is also known as Jindian Park.
For me, what makes exploring the Golden Temple Park so intriguing is the history and legend behind the construction and usage of the temple, more specifically, the story of Chen Yuanyuan, one of the 8 beauties of Chinese history.
I’ll share more about this legend at the end of this blog post but for now, come join me as I show you around Kunming’s Golden Temple Park!
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Kunming’s Taoist Golden Temple Park
The Golden Temple Park is more than just a temple
Before we get to fully exploring, I want to point out that despite the name, the Golden Temple Park isn’t actually gold… it’s copper. However it IS the largest, heaviest, and most well preserved copper temple in, not just Yunnan, but the whole of China!
Built in 1602 during the Ming Dynasty by the provincial governor of Yunnan, Chen Yongbin. The Golden Temple is a Taoist temple dedicated to the Zishi, the Taoist hero God. However, what makes this specific temple unique amongst many others is its unique architecture and artifacts such as the sixteen pillars, inscribed boards, and the gold painted copper accents decorated throughout the park.
Not to mention the legend of Chen YuanYuan and her dramatic/romantic association to the Golden Temple Park. This temple/park was built to house Chen Yuanyuan who enjoyed a peaceful and quiet atmosphere.
Exploring the Golden Temple Park
The Pixui is said to bring good fortune and wealth
There is lots to see at the Golden Temple Park, and one interesting thing to note is that some landmarks and structures were built after the initial construction of the park, such as the Bell Tower for example, which was built in 1983.
Before entering the Golden Temple Park, you’ll likely be arriving at the base of the temple at the parking area. There is also an entrance fee of 30 RMB. Now from the parking area, you can walk up the hill to the temple but I decided to go the luxurious route and purchase a ticket for a shuttle bus (more like a long go-cart) up the hill.
The go-cart will take you to the entrance to the main temple complex, also known as the Golden Temple Park Heaven Gate
The Golden Temple Park’s Heaven Gate
Shaded from the heat by large trees, this gate is sure heavenly!
Before you enter the main premises of the park and reach the actual Golden Temple you’ll pass through a set of large gates known as the “Heaven Gate”. This is an iconic aspect of many Taoist temples, the walking up a hill and reaching the gates part.
I quite enjoy this area of the Golden Temple Park, it feels like a miniature park in and of itself. large trees provide a cooling shade over the entrance grounds and you can find many points of interests in this area such as statues, inscribed walls and so on.
Going through the 3 total gates you’ll reach the next point of interest, the Lingxing Gate.
Golden Temple Park’s Lingxing Gate
I didn’t know the ancient Chinese had security cameras!
At the end of the path leading to the Golden Temple, there is this Medieval style wall with an ancient Chinese style outpost built on top, this wall/gate is known as the Lingxing Gate.
One fun fact my guide told me is that if you look closely in the outpost there is a statue of a Taoist diety. It is said that if you are a student or are currently studying in an educational program, if you pray to the diety it will bring you good luck on your exams. Unfortunately, I have already graduated from university and I don’t intend on going back so I cannot confirm if the prayer works or not.
Taihe Temple for Zishi, the hero-god of Taoism
Admire the Golden Temple in all its copper glory!
Passing through the Lingxing Gate you’ll reach the actual temple part of the Golden Temple Park. The Golden Temple structure itself sits atop a platform and is constructed out of bronze and weighs a massive 250 tons.
In front of the temple there is this large bowl of water with a sculpture of a fish with it’s mouth open sitting at the bottom. You can attempt to toss a coin into the fish’s mouth, if you succeed you’ll receiving a blessing of wealth and fortune, it’s harder than you think. Not to brag or anything but I managed to get it on my first try ;)
You can tell that this statue has been through a lot of history
Inside the Golden Temple are the a couple of bronze statues and one of Zishi. Over time the gold coating had withered, the bronze had rusted, and the wood had decayed, the atmosphere is quite spooky but it’s interesting to see that these artifacts had survived for over 400 years.
The Golden Temple Park Bell Tower
Just behind the main temple you can find a 3 story Bell Tower which houses a huge 580 year old bell made from copper. This bell weighs 14 tons and is about 3.5 meters tall, that’s insane!
600-year-old camellia tree
At first this looks to be a fake stone statue, but no it’s a real tree!
Right next to the Golden Temple structure is this 600 year old camellia tree where every February the tree would bloom and signify the approach of the spring season with hundreds of beautifully exquisite blossoms.
Since the tree is so old you can see some parts of the wood has been petrified into hardened material, sort of like stone. In addition the structure of the wood is all contorted like it had an extreme muscle cramp. My guide told me that this is due to all the damage caused by bugs and critters throughout the camellia tree’s existence.
Pretty interesting!
Camellia Botanical Garden
It’s like an entire jungle here!
Further down from the main temple structure, the Golden Temple Park has… A Park… Well more specifically a garden.
Being over 500 acres, this garden area contains a wide variety of flowers separated into different zones such as the Azalea Garden, Magnolia Garden, Rose Garden, and of course the Camellia Garden. Overall this garden area contains more than 2000 kinds of flora.
According to legend, Chen Yuanyuan would often spend time in these gardens meditating, or practicing her craft as an artist, poet, and performer.
This kind of gives me an Indiana Jones vibe for some reason
Within the garden area you can find in these pure copper structures, overall there are 4 to discover. I am not quite sure what these are, my guide told me what it was but… I forgot…
Also there isn’t a lot of information on the internet about these structures and sadly I could not read Mandarin. So if you know what these are please tell me in the comment section below this blog post!
The Legend of Chen Yuanyuan
Even the drawings depict Chen Yuanyuan as very beautiful!
Alright, time to tell you a little story, Chen Yuanyuan might remind you of a similar tale of “Helen of Troy” in fact, that’s what Chen Yuanyuan is known as in modern history, China’s own Helen of Troy. Grab a cup of Oolong tea, this is a long and confusing story…
Chen Yuanyuan was one of the most beautiful woman in ancient China and part of the 8 Beauties of Qinhuai. Her story is thought to have changed the course of China’s history and led to the downfall of a dynasty.
Born to a poor family in the late Ming Dynasty, Chen Yuanyuan was later sold to an opera troupe for money. Chen Yuanyuan became highly popular with the theater audiences and many men took interest in her beauty, one such individual was Mao Xiang, a renowned scholar and poet.
Mao Xiang and Chen Yuanyuan eventually fell in love but unbeknownst to Xiang, Chen Yuanyuan was sold to Tian Hongyu, a father of one of the Emperor’s concubines. Chen Yuanyuan was then given to Wu Sangui, a general for the Ming Dynasty. Chen Yuanyuan and Wu Sangui fell in love and maintained a happy relationship.
Chen Yuanyuan performed in Romance of the Western Chamber, one of China’s most famous dramatic works
In 1644, the rebel army led by Li Zicheng conquered the capital of Beijing, overthrew the Ming Dynasty and proclaimed himself king. Chen Yuanyuan was captured by Li Zicheng and thus started an epic struggle by Wu Sangui to rescue his beloved wife.
Through many hard fought battles Li Zicheng was eventually defeated and the couple was reunited. With the support of Chen Yuanyuan, Wu Sangui contributed much to the unification of China under the Qing Dynasty. However, Wu Sangui would then later rebel against this dynasty.
Chen Yuanyuan’s death is uncertain, there are many theories with the most popular one being that she changed her name and became a nun in Kunming after her husband’s rebellion against the Qing Dynasty had failed. Another theory says that she drowned herself in lotus pond, another states that she was raped and killed by the Qing Army after Wu Sangui’s failed rebellion…
Whatever her fate may be, no doubt Chen Yuanyuan’s story has had a strong influence in ancient Chinese history.
Do you think you are able to wield this 20kg sword?
Not far from the Chen YuanYuan gallery is a little room showcasing artifacts from the Ming Dynasty. Two of the most prominent ones are a giant spear and a giant sword that was wielded by a Taoist Deity known as Zhen Wu who guards the areas of the Mingfeng Hill.
The sword weighs a whopping 20kgs and features engravings and intricate designs, I especially like the hilt’s design, where the blade is protruding out of the dragon’s mouth.
Details About the Golden Temple Park
The Golden Temple Park in Kunming is a 400+ year old Taoist temple dedicated to the Taoist god, Zishi. The temple park is the largest and most well preserved copper temple in all of China.
Location: 3QQC+9MQ, Chuanjin Rd, Panlong District, Kunming, Yunnan, China, 650225
Opening Hours: 7:30 AM - 6:00 PM | Mon - Sun
How to get to the Golden Temple Park
Getting to the Golden Temple Park can be a bit tricky, you basically have 2 options, public bus or taxi.
For the public bus option, you can take bus No.71 from Nanping Street, or public bus No.10 from Donfeng/Baita Street. The busses are really cheap coming in at 1 RMB. The busses will take you directly to the Golden Temple Park, although they are a bit slow.
The easiest option and the most comfortable is taking a taxi. Pricing varies but assuming you’re starting from downtown Kunming the price is around 100 RMB. x100 more expensive than the bus but x100 more convenient and comfortable.
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